Restaurants Cheltenham
The open window sent a gust of sweet chilli aroma over to me from the crispy duck platter mid-course. It was gently, invigoratingly pleasant. My main was duck. Sometimes I feel like I live to eat duck. In fact Monty’s Brasserie has a lot to offer the bird flesh enthusiast! Duck, quail pigeon… it’s a treat! My duck breast sat on a bed of honey braised chicory. Perfect balance. Ribbons of chicory, their tearable texture, emphasised the plump softness of the duck. Meat juices and honey have always made a victorious mouthful. Ask any Viking. Food can make a visual impact in various ways. Monty’s food makes its impression primarily through composition — layout and shape. This is food you would buy if it were actually a very attractive rubber. You’d never use it, only look at it. It would make you feel happy to have around. Happily this on your plate is actual honest edible food, and it will make you feel better to eat it than to look at it. But oh boy! The meal starts with the eyes. My dining companion’s rack of lamb may have been the most beautiful plate I’ve ever seen eaten. A Sydney Opera House of lamb. A  headband of lamb. A Snake Mountain of lamb. It was tremendous. As he said, It was deeply warming and enriching. I felt better for having eaten it It was exactly the sort of meal that I’d usually demand a taste of. What can I say? My duck’s deliciousness outweighed my curiosity. Yum, yum, yum.
A break before desert. The dining room is painted rich red until it hits the picture rail (cream above it), which is a solid choice for a place that serves up luxuries. Red is warm, decadent and encouraging. The art on the walls is largely photography, black and white — a collection of Audrey Hepburn portraits, a mid- century woman with skis. The skiing woman was my favourite. She had panache. In the women’s bathroom the photography (wallpaperd) is later; late sixties, I’d guess from memory, but with the same dreamy luxe feeling to it. I’ve yet to find a restaurant restroom to beat Worcestershire’s Bear & Ragged Staff, where at last visit sanitary resources were free and hand towels were small, plush flannel, and for individual use. Monty’s has a coin dispenser for condoms and tampons, which won’t serve every need, but their bathroom does also provide post-wash hand moisturiser and is a very pleasing environment. It’s got a heavy feeling, heavy and clean. It provided welcome respite from concentrated consuming. Desert, then! As you may have realised, I was fast approaching full. My dining companion chose a cheesecake in three verses, beautifully composed, with star fruit crisps (which I recommend to all). I decided to tread lightly, and go for something to fill in the gaps: black forest hot chocolate. Good grief. Try one. Chambord, Kahlua, vodka and cream-topped hot chocolate gives you fruity and rich, hot and chill, the danger of alcohol and the comfort of fatty dairy. All of that tangoes on your tongue, raspberry, coffee, chocolate, cream. I’ve already taken steps that will allow me to recreate this choir of angels in my own home. I don’t even like black forest gateau much. If Monty’s Brasserie’s black forest hot chocolate is this good in summer, imagine the impact it could make in winter. Make a note in your calendar.

MONTY’S BRASSERIE...

glos.info Website glos.info Website
©  glos.info   2014, 2015
Restaurants Cheltenham
The open window sent a gust of sweet chilli aroma over to me from the crispy duck platter mid- course. It was gently, invigoratingly pleasant. My main was duck. Sometimes I feel like I  live to eat duck. In fact Monty’s Brasserie  has a lot to offer the bird flesh enthusiast!  Duck, quail pigeon… it’s a treat! My duck  breast sat on a bed of honey braised  chicory. Perfect balance. Ribbons of  chicory, their tearable texture, emphasised  the plump softness of the duck. Meat juices  and honey have always made a victorious  mouthful. Ask any Viking.  Food can make a visual impact in various  ways. Monty’s food makes its impression  primarily through composition — layout  and shape. This is food you would buy if it  were actually a very attractive rubber. You’d  never use it, only look at it. It would make  you feel happy to have around. Happily this  on your plate is actual honest edible food,  and it will make you feel better to eat it than  to look at it. But oh boy! The meal starts  with the eyes. My dining companion’s rack of lamb may  have been the most beautiful plate I’ve ever  seen eaten. A Sydney Opera House of lamb.  A  headband of lamb. A Snake Mountain of  lamb. It was tremendous. As he said,  It was deeply warming and enriching. I felt  better for having eaten it It was exactly the sort of meal that I’d  usually demand a taste of. What can I say?  My duck’s deliciousness outweighed my  curiosity. Yum, yum, yum.

MONTY’S BRASSERIE...

glos.info Website glos.info Website
next next previous previous
©  glos.info   2014, 2015