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A break before desert. The dining room is  painted rich red until it hits the picture rail  (cream above it), which is a solid choice for a  place that serves up luxuries. Red is warm,  decadent and encouraging. The art on the  walls is largely photography, black and white  — a collection of Audrey Hepburn portraits, a  mid-century woman with skis. The skiing  woman was my favourite. She had panache. In  the women’s bathroom the photography  (wallpaperd) is later; late sixties, I’d guess  from memory, but with the same dreamy luxe  feeling to it. I’ve yet to find a restaurant  restroom to beat Worcestershire’s Bear &  Ragged Staff, where at last visit sanitary  resources were free and hand towels were  small, plush flannel, and for individual use.  Monty’s has a coin dispenser for condoms  and tampons, which won’t serve every need,  but their bathroom does also provide post-   wash hand moisturiser and is a very pleasing  environment. It’s got a heavy feeling, heavy  and clean. It provided welcome respite from  concentrated consuming.  Desert, then! As you may have realised, I was  fast approaching full. My dining companion  chose a cheesecake in three verses,  beautifully composed, with star fruit crisps  (which I recommend to all). I decided to tread  lightly, and go for something to fill in the gaps:  black forest hot chocolate. Good grief. Try  one. Chambord, Kahlua, vodka and cream-topped hot chocolate gives you fruity and rich, hot and chill, the danger of alcohol and the comfort of fatty dairy. All of that tangoes on your tongue, raspberry, coffee, chocolate, cream. I’ve already taken steps that will allow me to recreate this choir of angels in my own home. I don’t even like black forest gateau much. If Monty’s Brasserie’s black forest hot chocolate is this good in summer, imagine the impact it could make in winter. Make a note in your calendar.
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MONTY’S BRASSERIE...

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